Arakis presenta la exposición retrospectiva sobre Leigh Bowery en el Museo Textil y de la Indumentaria de Barcelona
Xabier Arakistain inaugura el próximo día 26 una exposición sobre Leigh Bowery en el Museu Tèxtil i d'Indumentària (c/ Montcada, 12-14) de Barcelona.
Arakis(tain) es la comisaria de la exposición y aprovechará el viaje para pinchar junto a Genís la noche del jueves a partir de las 23:00 en el Club Trece de Barcelona (Plaza Real, 13).
Leigh Bowery, diseñador de ropa autraliano afincado el Londres, destaca por ser pionero en ensanchar los límites del diseño textil hasta transformar su obra en un arte multidisciplinar absolutamente revolucionario.
Formaba parte de la escena club londinense de finales de los setenta y principios de los 80 y junto a Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano, Pierre et Gilles, Boy George o Marc Almond frecuentaba locales como el mítico "Taboo".
Los diseños de Bowery, conservados con esmero por su esposa Nicola, han sido cedidos para esta interesantísima exposición originalmente programada en el seno de Bilbao Arte, sala permanente situada en Bilbao la Vieja, de la que también es comisario Xabier Arakistain.
En el cuerpo extendido del post incluyo la presentación de la exposición que hace Arakis en su web, en la que también puedes escuchar una canción compuesta por ella.
Leigh Bowery (Sunshine, Australia, 1961 - Londres, 1994) es un caso excepcional en la reciente historia del arte. Fue una figura destacada de la "club scene" londinense de los 80 y principios de los 90 que consiguió trascender el "dressing up" y dignificarlo como forma artística a través de sus perfomances. Cuando se ponía sus vestidos, su cuerpo escenificaba su propia concepción de la estética corporal, de la belleza y de su forma de entender el arte, la diversión, la elegancia, el sexo, el género y la sexualidad...
La "club scene" londinense de finales de los setenta y principios de los 80 se caracterizó porque mostraba la necesidad de toda una generación de ser distintos, la libertad para cruzar los géneros y experimentar la sexualidad, y ese aire inconfundible de mala leche rebelde, heredero del punk, contra la moral dominante. Allí se gestaron muchas de las ideas que luego transformadas están en la actualidad, por ejemplo, en la moda y en las artes plásticas y que han fundamentado la cultura de club que en los 90 se ha impuesto entre las y los jóvenes. A su vez, la frescura y la libertad para mezclar disciplinas y explorar sus fronteras, tan típica de la cultura de club actual y de la que Leigh Bowery es un precursor, se han convertido en referente y influencia destacada para las nuevas generaciones de artistas.
En Londres, a principios de los 80, Leigh Bowery ya era una estrella y cada noche su presencia en los clubes se convertía en una suerte de performance de las que afortunadamente ha quedado algo de documentación. Leigh formaba parte de una tropa de "clubbers" entre los que se encontraban Rifat Ozbeck, Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano, Pierre et Gilles, Boy George, Marc Almond, Princess Julia, Rachel Auburn, Nick Knight, y un largo etc de personajes relevantes en la cultura contemporánea. Leigh siempre llamó la atención. Por una parte, porque había encontrado el camino para trascender su vida nocturna y dignificar el "dressing up", algo habitual en los y las clubbers, como arte, y por otra, por cómo se vestía. Literalmente era una bomba, hacía todo lo contrario que el resto, mostraba lo que los demás suelen ocultar y ocultaba lo que se suele mostrar. El cuerpo de Leigh Bowery escenificaba una concepción propia de la estética, de la belleza y de su forma de entender el arte, la diversión, la elegancia, el sexo, el género y la sexualidad. A medida que su barriga crecía le daba un mayor protagonismo y elaboraba vestidos e imágenes corporales a partir de sus dimensiones anatómicas, tan alejadas de los cánones estándares.
Leigh deformaba, estiraba y doblaba distintas partes de sí mismo a la búsqueda de formas interesantes, porque le gustaba poner en cuestión las ideas que la gente tiene sobre el cuerpo. Posteriormente, Leigh se hizo un hueco en el mundo del arte y prestigiosas galerías como Anthony d´Doffay o centros de arte contemporáneo, como la Serpentine Gallery, de Londres acogieron sus ya míticas performances. También, se hicieron célebres las fotografías que prestigiosos fotógrafos como Annie Leibovitz o Nick Knight hicieron de él. Colaboró, como diseñador de vestuario e incluso a veces como interprete, en los montajes del bailarín Michael Clark y sobro todo adquirió notoriedad por su relación con el genial pintor Lucien Freud para quien posaba como modelo. En la última etapa de su vida, formó un grupo llamado Minty en el que cantaba y bailaba desnudo o vestido y con el que popularizó la famosa performance en la que "paría" a su amiga, esposa y ayudante Nicola Bowery. Con Minty también publicó un sencillo titulado "Useless Man" que fue número uno en Ámsterdam. Desgraciadamente, Leigh murió antes de conocer el éxito de su disco y la enorme influencia que ha dejado entre los y las artistas jóvenes y entre los grandes creadores de moda de la actualidad. En los últimos años Galliano, Westwood o Gaultier han declarado que Bowery era un genio cortando patrones y cosiendo y han homenajeado sus extraordinarios vestidos. Y es que Leigh Bowery creo fabulosos vestidos e imágenes corporales que titulaba individualmente, como "cabeza de tutú" o "fetiche negro", y que desafiaban constantemente los cánones estándares. Todas las piezas de ropa merecen que se les preste una atención, ya que el corte y la forma sitúan a Leigh entre los grandes diseñadores de ropa de su tiempo.
A principios de 2002, el westend londinense celebró la figura de Bowery a través del musical "Taboo" compuesto por Boy George, en alusión al mítico club de los 80 que dedicaron exposiciones y ciclos de conferencias a su figura.
Leigh Bowery vivía en el margen, pero celebraba el estar fuera de las normas en cada ocasión, probablemente "la alegría" con la que celebró su "diferencia" es lo que mejor defina su trabajo. Su obra, su legado, que Nicola Bowery guarda con devoción y esmero y que tan amablemente puso a nuestra disposición para esta retrospectiva, es un verdadero ejercicio de libertad y creatividad.
Flashman dixit, Febrero 24, 2004 05:06 PM | TrackBack | PermalinkDefinitivamente le perdemos...
A mi me parece interesante. Con comentarios así no te van a dejar entrar en el Arrebato.
El de Sexy Sadie muy bien, las mejores canciones son de los dos primeros discos, los únicos que tengo, especialmente del que sale dibujo con una chica con el pelo largo en la portada.
Esa conexión con Palma!
No he podido resistirlo. Me he encontrado con una noticia en la que se habla de la creación de una plataforma para la recogida de firmas para que Alejandro Sanz deje de cantar. Os paso el enlace de la página y la noticia.
www.petitiononline.com
http://www.vnunet.es/Opinión/Editorial/Informática_personal/Mundo_digital/20040223057
Lo puso la semana pasada Iko en su blog, yo ya he firmado.
El próximo Bisbal...
Escrito por Flashman a las Febrero 24, 2004 07:35 PMSí, yo también la firmé. Me caer peor AS que Bisbal de todas maneras.
Flash, te refieres a "It´s beautiful it´s love", a mí también es el disco que más me gusta de Sexy Sadie.
Efectivamente, ese es.
Escrito por Flashman a las Febrero 25, 2004 12:42 PMjejeje, yo voy este sábado a la exposición!!! Pero yo creo que el mayor mérito de Bowery fue, sobre todo, dignificar la cultura de club y el travestismo como modo de vida.
Ays! Como mi amada Arakis...!
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